Mini Guides

Bouldering in Italy

There are an thousands of bolted routes and classic Alpine assents throughtout the pennisula, however there are few great destination bouldering areas. It would seem that most rock not attacted to a cliff face has already been ground up for gravel, sliced into tiles, or chipped into a statue. However, there are a few vacation worthy sites to visit and some areas that are still being cleaned and developed.

Bouldering did not take off in Italy or even Europe like it did in the US. With so much great climbing avalable and the ability to climb year round if you were willing to do a short road trip, bouldering was viewed as a wasted effort. If you think there are clicks and

Reconized rules in the areas:

• If you do not need to top out don't. Leave the natural plants and moss in place if possible.
• Chipping: What you can't remove with a stiff plastic brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
• Leaving tickmarks: When redpointing a boulder it is useful to create a Picasso in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
• Bolts: If you use bolts when you train on a "boulder" you are actually aiming for soloing not bouldering.

Grade Comparisons

The following table attempts to compare the three different bouldering grades described above. The British technical grade has also been included for comparison. All routes listed in guide are US V Grade, please note that all grades may not be exact. If you find a route to be different email me and I will keep for updates.