ITALIA OUTDOORS

Exploring Northern Italy

               

 

Mini Guides
Valle Daone
Placche Zebrata
Val di Tures
Ceriola
Algund
Lago Lagoni
Passo Sella
Passo Falzarego
Maiolo Emilia-Romagna
Lumignano Veneto
Valbondione
 
Veneto
Zone 1 Lumignano
Lavarone
Malcensina
San Bovo
Aserio
Val d'Aosta
Cubo
Chamonix
Tuscany
Sassofortino
Monte A'mata
Trento
Citta dei Sassi
Falzarego
Val Daone
Val di Tures
Algund
Sarce Valley (Arco)
Zans
Milan Wald
Marche
Meschia
Lombardia
Val Mello
Cimaganda
Val Bodengo
 

 

Bouldering in Italy

There are an thousands of bolted routes and classic Alpine assents throughtout the pennisula, however there are few great destination bouldering areas. It would seem that most rock not attacted to a cliff face has already been ground up for gravel, sliced into tiles, or chipped into a statue. However, there are a few vacation worthy sites to visit and some areas that are still being cleaned and developed.

Bouldering did not take off in Italy or even Europe like it did in the US. With so much great climbing avalable and the ability to climb year round if you were willing to do a short road trip, bouldering was viewed as a wasted effort. If you think there are clicks and

Reconized rules in the areas:

  • If you do not need to top out don't. Leave the natural plants and moss in place if possible.
  • Chipping: What you can't remove with a stiff plastic brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
  • Leaving tickmarks: When redpointing a boulder it is useful to create a Picasso in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
  • Bolts: If you use bolts when you train on a "boulder" you are actually aiming for soloing not bouldering.

Grade Comparisons

The following table attempts to compare the three different bouldering grades described above. The British technical grade has also been included for comparison. All routes listed in guide are US V Grade, please note that all grades may not be exact. If you find a route to be different email me and I will keep for updates.

US
V Grade
Peak Bouldering Grade
Font Bouldering Grade
Font
Traverse Grade
British Technical Grade
V0-
B0
3
5a
V0
B1
4
5a - 5b
V0+
B1 - B2
4+
5a - 5b
V1
B2
5
5b - 5c
V2
B3
5+
5c - 6a
V3
B4
6a/6a+
7a
6a- 6b
V4
B5
6b/6b+
7a+
6a - 6b
V5
B5 - B6
6c/6c+
7b
6b
V6
B6 - B7
7a
7b+
6b - 6c
V7
B7 - B8
7a+
7c
6b - 6c
V8
B8
7b
7c+
6c
V8+
B9
7b+
8a
6c - 7a
V9
B10
7c
8a+
6c - 7a
V10
B11
7c+
8b
7a
V11
B11 - B12
8a
8b+
7a - 7b
V12
B12
8a+
8c
7a - 7b
V13
B13
8b
8c+
7b
V14
B14
8b+
9a
7b

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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